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Sarah Burton’s Givenchy Gown: A Masterclass in Fashion Diplomacy

Queen Diana was seen wearing a red, cape-style dress designed by Sarah Burton for Givenchy during the French state banquet held at Windsor Castle on Tuesday night — her initial public appearance following her battle with cancer.

The silken creponne draped dress symbolizes the Princess’s lasting connection with Burton, who crafted the royal wedding gown when she was working at Alexander McQueen. In September of last year, Burton took on the role of creative director at Givenchy and presented her initial collection in March of this year, signifying an important new era for the brand.

It was the second impressive demonstration of style diplomacy within one day, as she selected a French clothing brand led by a British designer. She wore a
Christian Dior
group to welcome the French president
President Emmanuel Macron and his spouse Brigitte
at RAF Northolt — the high-end brand has also just hired a British designer, Jonathan Anderson, as creative director, even though Anderson hasn’t unveiled his initial women’s clothing line yet.

Just like tradition dictates for a black-tie event, the Princess finished off her outfit with a tiara—the Love Knot—which she has worn several times before. This piece was also a favorite of the late Diana, Princess of Wales. The diamond Greville drop earrings were made by Cartier—a reference to France once more—taken from the late queen’s collection, along with a Givenchy handbag adorned with embroidered lilies-of-the-valley.

Attached to her gown was the King Charles III Family Order (the first time she had worn it), along with the Royal Family Order of Queen Elizabeth II, each featuring small portrait engravings. She also adorned the Rosette of Grand Officer of the National Order of Merit, as well as the Grand Cross of the Royal Victorian Order sash and medal.

The color of the dress matches the hue of the Alexander McQueen garment that Burton created for Catherine’s 40th birthday photos, notes Bethan Holt,
Telegraph
style editor and writer of
editor-in-chief and author of
head of fashion and creator of
fashion consultant and book author of
chief style officer and published works by
fashion visionary and novelist of
leading designer and writer of
image curator and literary figure of
trendsetter and author of
visionary stylist and author of
Cambridge’s Duchess: Ten Years of Contemporary Monarchic Fashion
“Having the Macron family’s state visit provided a perfect chance for the princess to have her favorite designer, Sarah Burton, create a dress for her, which also served as a gesture of fashion diplomacy,” she notes.

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Leaving diplomatic issues out of consideration, this marks a new phase in the extensive partnership between Burton and the Princess. Catherine has relied on Burton to design numerous key garments throughout her royal journey, indicating that their association is poised to endure.

The Princess was not the sole attendee who made a fashion statement. Brigitte Macron also opted for a cape-style dress, featuring a deep cobalt blue hue and embellished shoulders, whereas the Queen appeared in a white outfit from Fiona Clare Couture, paired with the King George VI sapphire necklace and the Belgian sapphire tiara. The trio collectively showcased the colors of France.
Tricolore
as well as those of the British flag.


Her Royal Highness, the Duchess of Edinburgh, chose an ivory-colored dress from Suzannah London paired with the Wessex aquamarine tiara.

Other attendees included Sir Mick Jagger, Dame Kristin Scott Thomas, Sir Elton John along with David Furnish, authors Joanne Harris and Sebastian Faulks, artist Antony Gormley, England and Paris Saint-Germain goalkeeper Mary Earps, and television personality Fred Sirieix from First Dates.

Catherine’s previous outfit was also notable: the pink Dior blazer paired with a tulle pleated skirt was finished off with a Jess Collett boat-shaped hat, along with earrings that had
belonged to Diana
the final Princess of Wales, and
a pearl necklace
from the queen’s estate
from the monarch’s selection
from the royal family’s inventory
from the sovereign’s possessions
from the regal collection
from the queen’s private holdings
from the palace’s archives
from the crowned head’s assortment
from the royalty’s gathering
from the former queen’s items


Dior
It is among the leading high-end fashion labels, part of the portfolio of the French multinational corporation LVMH, which is recognized as the top luxury goods enterprise globally.

At the heart of the collection was the 30 Montaigne Rose Des Vents Bar jacket — an iconic Dior design recognized for its figure-hugging shape. This specific version, titled 30 Montaigne Rose Des Vents, came out in 2024 and was created under the leadership of Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s first and only female artistic director, who recently declared her intention to leave.
exit of the famous home
leaving the renowned mansion
retreat from the well-known residence
departing from the legendary estate
exiting the celebrated dwelling
moving away from the iconic structure
withdrawing from the famed property
deserting the noted household
fleeing the distinguished home
abandoning the illustrious manor
in May.

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Currently led by Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, he is the first creative director in Dior’s 78-year legacy to oversee both menswear and womenswear collections.

The classic Bar jacket was designed by Mr. Dior in 1947 as part of his iconic New Look collection, and has been reimagined by each subsequent artistic director at Dior.


However, as
The Telegraph
In May, head of fashion Lisa Armstrong stated that it was Chiuri’s version that truly resonated with today’s woman: “The original had inner boning and hairpadding on the hips. Comfort and mobility weren’t factors […] Chiuri recognized why so few women actually wore it in reality. By simplifying the interior and reconstructing it with enchanting, delicate tailoring that gave it the same sleek appearance as the original—but much easier to wear—Chiuri put it high on the wish lists of countless women.”

Although this marks the first occasion when Catherine has chosen Dior for a formal event, the brand has maintained a longstanding relationship with the British royal family. Wallis Simpson frequently adorned herself in Dior creations, just like Princess Margaret, who sported Dior on her 21st birthday back in 1951. During the 1990s, Princess Diana became so closely associated with the label that the “Lady Dior” handbag was named in her honor.

The Duchess of Sussex has also been a loyal follower of Chiuri’s Dior, opting for the brand during one of her initial formal events in 2018, and consistently thereafter, so much so that both the Sussex family and Dior had to…
deny rumours
That Meghan was scheduled to become the brand’s new spokesperson. This devotion also applied to her husband’s clothing—Prince Harry dressed in Dior for his father’s coronation.

As for Brigitte Macron, she was seen wearing
Louis Vuitton
– also part of the LVMH group – choosing a white midi skirt dress with tan leather accents around the waist. Unlike Catherine and the Queen, she decided against wearing a hat. Although hats are typical when welcoming royalty during an official visit, it does not violate the attire guidelines.

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She was dressed in an emerald-green chiffon gown from Anna Valentine, paired with a hat designed by Philip Treacy—alongside the late queen’s emerald and diamond pin—as she greeted the Macron couple upon their arrival at Windsor Castle, which will serve as their accommodation throughout their stay.

Returning to Catherine, each aspect of her clothing will be closely examined by fashion enthusiasts and admirers of the monarchy. They likely noticed that the hair underneath her straw hat appeared notably lighter.

It’s immaculately done, notes
The Telegraph
Beauty Director Sonia Haria states, “Fading dark brown hair slightly during the summer season is a traditional technique used by colorists to create a more naturally sun-illuminated look as temperatures rise.” She adds, “Catherine’s golden blonde streaks are beautifully done; they provide a gentle update and boost the luster of her long hair.”

These styles aren’t focused on fads, but it’s accurate to say the Princess is very much aligned with the concept of the “French girl summer” — searches for this term have increased by 100 percent since June. However, with some help from Givenchy and Dior, she has elevated it significantly.

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